Howard DuBose
Back in my “youth” when I owned my outdoor shop, River Runners’ Emporium, I rented camping and boating gear. One of my favorite summer time rentals were folks heading to the coast to camp on Bear Island, also known as Hammocks Beach State Park. My customers usually had a good time, and my equipment came back sandy, but in good shape. No one ever lost one of my boats out there!
One of our major coastal State Parks, Hammocks Beach (also known as Bear Island), 4.5 miles SE of Swansboro off NC 24, on SR 1151) is between Morehead City and Jacksonville near Swansboro. The attraction is the unspoiled beach, but you have to get to the island by private boat or passenger ferry (which runs from April to October, $5 roundtrip). You can use your own kayak or canoe (2.6 miles from the park office).
Huggins and Bear Islands are major sea kayaking areas in ENC. There is kayak-in camping available on Bear Island, but not on Huggins or Dudley Islands.
Bear Island is small 3.5x.5 miles in size, with little or no shade. It is a “desert” barrier island, with a small maritime forest that is constantly in danger of the shifting dunes. Swimming is permitted on the ocean side of the island, where there are lifeguards during the summer. There is no swimming at either end (Bear Inlet and Bogue Inlet) of the island, because of the currents and boat traffic. There are indoor and outdoor showers.
Bear Island has not been over washed recently, so it has dunes up to 60 feet high, and is one of the few remaining examples of an undeveloped N.C. coastal island. (No condos yet!) This is what the N.C. Coast looked like when the first explorers came here.
Hammocks Beach State Park is worthwhile visit, but not for the faint-hearted. (14000 Hammocks Beach Rd, Swansboro, 28584—919-326-4881). The park is open year-round and has parking at park headquarters inland. Reservations can be made by phone at 1-877-7CAMP or online at northcarolinastateparks. reserveamerica.com
The area of the park between the islands and the mainland is salt marsh and mud flats, and depending on the tide, much of it can be explored only by kayak or canoe. There is an all-tide 6 mile paddle trail to and around Huggins Island, where there is what is considered a special and rare wilderness forest. (no landing!) So you can use your boat for basic transportation, or for exploring. If you are adventurous, camping is available on Bear Island during the winter, when the ferry is not running and there are no facilities.
During the warmer months, canoe, kayak, stand-up paddle board rentals and tours are available at the mainland park (Hidden Coast Adventure, 910-612-3297).
Camping is primitive. There are two group sites, ocean side, one for 12 and one for 24, along with 14 family sites, 3 of which are only paddle-in. Family sites accommodate 6 people each and 2 tents. The rest are on the ocean side and you must carry your gear either from the ferry or from your boat. You must bring in everything you need. The ocean side campsites have picnic tables. Water is available (except during the winter), fires are not allowed (camping stoves only), collecting driftwood is not allowed, and all trash must be removed by campers. Reservations are required, and visitors must check in with the park office. Camping is $13.00 a night.
There is picnicking (a gazebo and a shelter offer shade, bring your own picnic!), concessions (cold drinks and snacks), water, restrooms, and a bathhouse. Right now the island emergency telephone is not working, but you may be close enough to Swansboro for your cell to work.
One of the major attractions is the loggerhead sea turtles that nest on the beach to lay their eggs. It is illegal to bother sea turtles or their nests. The sea turtles come to the beach from May to October.
Hammocks Beach State Park offers many interpretive and nature programs in the summer. They offer several sea turtle programs, seashell & dolphin programs, and Junior Ranger programs for the kids. You can check the park website for event schedules as you plan.
Fishing is available on Bear Island (flounder blue fish, trout), with the proper state licenses, and fall fishing is said to be very good. There is no fishing from mainland park property.
I recently learned is that Bear Island was originally privately owned by an African-American teachers association that wanted to turn it into a minority state park. In the days before the civil rights era, beaches in NC were segregated. It was donated to the State of NC in 1961 to be an African-American beach, but the Civil Rights Act of 1964 meant that it became a park for everyone. The state acquired an additional 190 acres on the mainland for the park in 2015.
A significant amount of Civil War activity took place in and around the park boundaries. Blackbeard also used these waters as hideouts. So as you sun yourself on the beach, cook your breakfast, or tour by kayak, you will be doing so in a very historical part of North Carolina.